Foot Detox Blog

Before you begin: Determine the width of the door from the outside edges of the casing, then purchase a hardware kit with a track twice that of the width.

These doors are made to cover a 30-inch-wide opening with 4-inch casing on either side. measurements are:

• 38½ inches wide by 2¼ inches thick by 83½ inches tall.

• 1×6 pine boards for the back: Cut the boards ½ inch shorter than the height of the opening (this will allow the door to pass over the floor guide.)

• 1×3 strapping for blocking: Cut a length of about the width of the work surface; ours measured 48 inches. Cut the remainder of the board into blocking afterwards.

• 1×5 pine for the filler strips: Cut three rails the width of the door; ours measured 38½ inches. Then cut four stiles to fill between the rails, completing the upper and lower panels of the door. Our stiles measured 35 inches long for the upper panel and 34 inches long for the lower one, to create the 1-inch channel for the floor guide.

• Pallet boards: About 60 boards at least 24⅜ inches long, mitered to parallel 45-degree angles on each end to fit.

• 1×6 cedar for face frame: Cut two stiles the height of the door; ours measured 83½ inches. Then cut four rails to span between the stiles; ours measured 27½ inches. Edge-glue and clamp two of those rails together to make the bottom rail. Rip 2 inches off one edge after the glue dries.

• 1×4 pine for the mounting rail: Cut it to match the track length; ours measured 77 inches.

2. Assembling the Boards

Your sliding barn door will have a 30-inch-wide opening, so seven 16s should span the casing perfectly; Ripping the pine boards to width may be necessary. Measure from the floor to the top of the door casing, and continue cutting the boards ½ inch shorter on a miter saw. Once the boards are ganged side by side, place the blocks along the outside edges, using long bar clamps to cinch them together. Square up the assembly with longer strapping at the top and bottom edges. Finish up by screwing the blocks and strapping in place, and removing the clamps.

3. Adding Filler Strips

A miter saw will work well to cut the 15 filler strips in accordance to the cut list. Adding adhesive, setting the top rail flush along the top of the boards; adhere the upper stiles below it, flush to the outside edges, and the middle rail underneath them. Add the lower stiles and rail, leaving a 1-inch channel for the floor guide that contains the door. Slide a 1¼-inch deck screw through each strip into each 16 it crosses.

4. Cutting the Chevrons

To help keep track of things use a straightedge to mark a centerline down the door’s two inset panels. Position the miter saw to 45 degrees and cut one end off each pallet board. Beginning at the top rail, butt the mitered ends of two pieces of similar girth/thickness/color together at the centerline, forming an arrow. We used a combination square to mark the boards about ⅛ inch short of where they overlap the stiles, as shown. Miter the pieces to length, then dry-fit them. Repeat the process, one chevron at a time.

5. Cutting the Corners 

The boards that hit the corners will require you to use the combination square to mark where the piece overlaps the stile and the rail. Use the miter saw to cut the two angels, as shown. Once you install the longer pieces, fill the remainder of the pattern with scrap, and cut to fit.

6. Installing the Pattern

Now that the chevrons have dry-fit in both panels, remove one pair of boards at a time, distributing panel adhesive to the undersides, and firmly pressing them into place again. Operating a pneumatic nailer, tack the boards into their position with 1 1/4- inch brads, one close to the corner edge of each board.  Continue to repeat the process, fastening and nailing each pair of boards as you work down the two panels.

7. Drilling Pocket Holes

Start with your miter saw again, cutting the cedar per the cut list. Organize the pieces of rough-face down concealing the filler strips. Clamp a pocket-hole jig securely at the end of a rail, even with one edge, and use the kit bit to drill a hole. Reset the jig along the opposite edge and repeat. Drill two pocket holes at each end of the upper and middle rail.

Tip: Spreading glue on both edges of the joint and drilling the pocket holes in the rail so that the screw grabs the stile’s edge grain will make for the strongest bond.

8. Building the Frame

Use wood glue on the ends of the rails and the adjoining edges of the mating stiles, then clamp the frame together. Drive the screws included with our kit into the edges of the stiles at each pocket hole, as shown. Take off the bar clamps.

9. Attaching the Face Frame

Use care when removing the face frame, and set it aside. Distribute panel adhesive in a zigzag pattern along the filler strips. Bring the frame back to the table and situate it rough-side up, concealing the screws. Gently set it in place, as illustrated, aligning it along all four edges. Tap it down with 1¼-inch brads every 8 inches or so.

10. Applying the Finish 

The entire door will need to be lightly sanded with 100-grit paper to get rid of any splinters hiding. Take a cotton rag to rub a generous amount of paste wax into the wood.

11. Attach the Rollers

The rolling hardware on the width of the cedar stiles will need to be centered. A helpful strategy is to remove the wheels first. Make a mark where the screws are going to be located, drilling pilot holes into the filler-strip edge with a ⅛-inch bit. Then screw the hardware in place, as shown. Slip the track into their grooves after you replace the wheels. Measure between the door and the track to determine how high above the casing to mount it—¾ inch for this hardware.

12. Attach the Mounting Board

Return to the miter saw and cut a length of 14 equal to the length of the track. You may want to follow our lead and paint yours to match the wall. Grab a stud finder to inspect the framing and mark locations above the head casing. Level the mounting board above the casing, drilling pilot holes through it and into each stud with a ⅛-inch bit. Fasten it securely with 3-inch deck screws.

13. Installing the Track

Measure ¾ inch above the casing and make two marks on the mounting board. The track you hold flat against the board, with its underside edge at the marks. Using a 2-foot level, be positive that it’s level, then scratch a mark for each lag bolt location on the board. Put the track away and drill 5⁄16-inch pilot holes at each mark. Thread a lag screw through one hole and a standoff and tighten it—not the whole way though—using a ⅜-inch socket wrench. Ratchet the remaining lags in place, then return and snug them all up.

14. Rolling the Door On

Add a doorstop at one end. With a spotter to help you navigate, hoist the door onto the track and slide it to the stop. Do the same installation process for the other stop. Angle the L-shaped floor guide so that it holds the door in both its open and closed positions. Mark the screw locations, drill pilot holes, and securely connect the guide to the floor using the included screws. Position the door handle on the centerline of the stile, drill ⅛-inch pilot holes, and fasten it with the included hardware.

More at http://www.knrslidingdoors.com/sliding-barn-doors/

Question: So we just brought a closet door, and it keeps coming off the tracks! My wife uses to be able to get the doors back on track, but now both of the sliding doors appears to be jammed. It should be noted that the sliding doors are from 1984 so if there is any solution that could save the entries then that will help a tonne. Don’t expect much in the way of anwsers but thanks!

Answer: Do not worry! We hear about people all the time with jammed pocket doors and sliding doors. Right off the bat, I can tell you what your problem is, the door. The new style of doors, those around the early 2000 era, have a track that is shaped like a ‘C’. It is most likely you have one that is shaped like a ‘J’ or an ‘I’. Usually I would suggest that someone have a door as old as your completely replace but since you seem intent on keeping it then you should simply have the new track installed. They can be purchased at most hardware stores and are easy to get installed. Assuming that the rest of the door is in good condition then the new track should cost around 100 to 150 dollars. Please note that this includes installation fees.

Source: http://www.knrslidingdoors.com/custom-sliding-closet-doors/

When learning something new, especially when it comes to medicine, you want to be confident that you are learning from the absolute best; you want your skills and techniques to be the most up to date, the chemicals and tools that you are using to be the best in the field, and any innovations that have been made in the last year to already be passed down to you. That is what anyone should expect when learning treatments that will be used on patients, after all, and it is the way that Dr Howard Katz teaches. Although his primary education is based in dentistry, he has far surpassed that by moving forty years ago into Botox when it was just a fledging treatment program. No one knew then what it would become, but Dr Howard Katz was instrumental in ensuring that it become a core tenet of the treatment options that dentists are now able to offer, especially if they have taken Dr Howard Katz’ Botox training course for dentists, entitled Dentox.

Through the years, Dr Howard Katz has been vital in developing new techniques and even new chemicals in order to offer Botox to patients, and this means that he actually holds a good many patents for Botox administration. His research is second to none, which is why he is so often sought after as a lecturer or teacher in this area. In order to reach as many people as possible, Dr Howard Katz often travels abroad to countries such as South Africa, many in Europe, Israel, and Asia. He also, however, has a desire to see more local dentists rise up to the challenge and take Botox certification, which is why he has created his Los Angeles training program: a one day training event for dentists that will be taking place in LA.

More about his New York courses at http://botoxtrainingnewyork.com

With age comes wisdom teeth, with wisdom teeth comes discomfort. What was once the
forgotten memory of teething is revisited in our later teeth years as these third molars begin to
erupt through the gums. These molars are most commonly known to impact causing infection,
inflammation and a specific type of oral pain. The headaches, tenderness of the area and stress
associated with this type of pain can be combatted with a few simple tricks while you wait for
that upcoming dentist appointment. If you are experiencing the effects of incoming painful wisdom
teeth, explore these natural remedies on relieving pain and fighting infection to turn that frown
upside down.

Clove
Clove goes down in the books as a powerful anesthetic and antiseptic thanks to the inherent
properties of eugenol. Before modern dentistry, clove was used to numb oral pain and wipe out
the bacterias that lead to infection. With the increase in natural remedies, clove has become
available to us in all different forms from powder to oil to whole. To feel the effects of clove, put
a few drops of clove/olive oil mix onto a cotton ball and apply directly to the pain induced
tooth.

If you are using the popular kitchen spice instead, rinse your mouth with warm water and salt
then apply the clove powder directly to the inflamed area. After the anesthetic properties kick in,
simply spit and move on with your day!

Warm Water/Salt Mix
The benefits of warm water salt mix for cleansing bacteria and infection has proven it’s
effectiveness dating back to Egyptian times. In order to feel the effects of the mix, add between
½ and 1 teaspoon into warm water and swish around the area experiencing pain. If you want to
optimize the benefits, try a high mineral salt versus the traditional table salt.

Garlic
If you have used raw garlic for it’s healing properties before, you may be aware of the potent yet
beneficial effects of raw garlic. Similar to the salt/warm water mix, the raw garlic treatment dates
back to our ancestors for it’s antibacterial properties thanks to the compound, Allicin. Allicin is a
sulphur compound that’s released when raw garlic is crushed or opened. Use raw garlic to
cleanse infected areas in direct form or as a paste for maximum effect. For direct use, simply
halve a clove of garlic and rub down the infected area for up to 10 minutes. Next, chew on the
raw garlic to release Allicin until the pain subsides then rinse with warm water. To create the
paste, simply crush garlic and salt together. When the paste is created, apply to infected area
for a few minutes then rinse with warm water.

Lavender Oil
As a huge advocate of lavender’s medicinal properties, the discovery of this oil and the ability to
combat oral pain was not surprising. Take an extra virgin coconut/lavender oil mix for a gentle
pain reliever for incoming wisdom teeth. Lavender induces relaxation so treat yourself to a jaw
massage in the meantime before bed and finally get a good night’s rest pain free.

More at http://wisdomtoothpain.org